The more I think about
it the more I think I ought to go. This could be my very first
open ended vacation!! Always before I have had to be back at a
certain time. This time I can play it by ear. I have read
that this is the wettest winter in the ninety years of recorded Death
Valley Monument history and the spring flowers should be spectacular!
Also, during Winter
Break, I heard about a cabin located somewhere in Confidence Wash.
My friend Jeff in Shoshone said he would try to find a map of it and
let me know. Another guy named Plum, who I have never met except
via e-mail, has sent me some interesting Death Valley locations to
check out. There is a lot to do, starting with, getting in
shape.
I have been walking
every day. I dug out my old Kelty backpack and have started
wearing it and adding a bit of weight to it. My neighbor Tawny
and I have been going for walks and picking up trash along the
Greenwood/Philo Road. I have been hauling the trash home in my
back pack. Over time we have gradually increased our walks to
five miles and my pack weight up to around twenty pounds.
Another friend, Erica,
who is an avid backpacker, told me about Ray Jardine's book about
lightweight backpacking. I bought a copy and got some good
ideas.
And I read, "Between a
Rock and a Hard Place", by Aron Ralston about him being on a day hike
through a slot canyon in Southern Utah. He is the guy who had a
rock roll and pin his right hand against the canyon wall. His
story is a very good reminder for me to always keep people informed
about where I am and what my plans are while out in the vast
wilderness.
Lolli is excited about
me and my plans. I left some blank checks with my neighbors,
they will pick up my mail and deal with my few bills that come in.
I think I have everything covered.
February 16. I turn and cast one last look at
dingyHovel, hop into my Vanagon, and head up the road.
Wham!
Driving over a small water bar in the drive up to
the gate something sounded like the bottom of the Vanagon was hit with
a sledgehammer! I stop and take a look and discover my lower
left ball joint blew out!! Unbelievable! Here I am,
finally ready for the trip of my lifetime, and I break down within a
quarter mile of my home!! I sit there and ponder my situation.
Should I forget the whole thing? Just stay home and build model
airplanes? I take another look at the ball joint. Maybe I
can drive it to Ukiah and get it fixed if I drive real careful; don't
hit any bumps. I grab my cell phone and call Big O Tires in
Ukiah. "Do you guys do ball joints on a 1984 Vanagon?"
"Yup."
"I'm on my way."
One hour to Ukiah, three hours in the shop, $375.00
bucks later and I am good to go!! In the late afternoon,
during my drive past Clearlake, I spot a vehicle I have never seen
before.
I met the owner and he tells me it is a Corwin.
Electric powered. Quite nicely done.
By nightfall I am camping at Walker Ridge in the
steadily falling rain!
February 17
I reach the Central Valley and the almond trees are
in blossom!! Yes!
During the long drive south on I-5 the monotony is
broken when I spot a crew doing transmission tower repair.
Believe it or not there are four guys in the stage below the
helicopter. I watched the pilot of the helicopter hover the
stage at one location while work was being done and now they are being
moved to another location!! I wonder what that job pays!!
By nightfall I am over Tehachapi Pass and camped
east of Mojave.
In the morning I visit my doggie Sarah's grave.
Her dog dish and dog ball are still there. All the rain makes
the desert very lush.
North of Baker I drive past Silverlake.
Normally this is a dry lake with a road straight across it. Now
it if full to the brim!
Further on I pass the Dumont Dunes and see something
that compels me to turn around, go back, and take a photo.
Someone got their big motor home stuck in the sand
and there are three, count 'em, three vehicles hooking up with nylon
straps to pull him out! And, by golly, they did it! Quite
entertaining!
In the afternoon I arrive at my first destination,
Rhoades Cabin. A rain shower and rainbow greet me.
A guy by the name of Jon is already staying in the
cabin but that is fine with me. I camp in my Vanagon. We
end up staying at Rhoades five days and hiked to various places of
interest around the area. Jon is retired from the Death Valley
Park Service and although totally deaf he is very interesting to be
around. A really nice guy.
One day I drive to Tecopa for a hot tub. The
washes are running with water.
One result of all this rain is my introduction to
the Death Valley mosquito!! They are about four times the size
of the Alaskan mosquito but they don't seem to know what to do with
the rarely encountered human! Not one has managed to bite me!
Yet!
Each day, during my stay at Rhoades I would look at
the peak to the south and study it through my binoculars. When
we were here during Winter Break our friend Robert from Ithaca, New
York hiked up to the top of that peak. He made it seem easy.
Now I have it in my mind to do the same. Finally a rain free day
arrives and I decide to go for it. The yellow mark on the above
photo shows my planned route.
Yes! I did it!! When I later told Lolli,
via cell phone, about my accomplishment I told her it took me five
hour and twenty minutes round trip! She laughed and said, "It
only took Robert twenty minutes!"
Shessh!
Anyway, I feel I did pretty good for an old fart.
One thing about the unsettled weather, it sure can
be beautiful.
From "Robert's Peak" I could see the Amargosa River
meandering in the southern end of Death Valley and I decided to go
there next.
On my way, via the Harry Wade Route, a Raven kept an
eye on me.
I camped where the road crosses the Amargosa.
I didn't see any need to try crossing it and getting my brakes full of
highly salty water although I did see a Ford Expedition go across.
I met a young couple with two young boys who were hiking and tent
camping. The boys were around six and four and hiked right along
with their mom and dad. At night they all wore their headlamps
during dinner. I heard no whining or sniveling or complaints
about missing their Nintendo. Great kids. Wonderful
parents. Hi James, Ellie, Zach and Luke!
In the morning the sunrise on the Panamint Mountains
was spectacular.
Driving along the floor of the valley the flowers
just got better and better!
My next "project". Visit the Ashford Mine.
Everybody stops and visits the Ashford Mill which is
just off the highway going to Badwater but few visit the mine that
supplied the mill. In the above photo is where I camped
overnight. The small brown rock hills above the Vanagon are where I
parked to start my hike. The yellow arrow points to the canyon
entrance. This little jaunt took me seven hours and forty
minutes round trip! Pretty good elevation change too. I
felt like I had put in a day by the end of it. I wound up
walking along with a "semi-retired" couple from Las Vegas who had a
six month old Brittney Spaniel, "Hana", with them. Great dog!
Having those folks to talk to, while walking, helped take my mind off
my aches and pains!
At the mining camp there were three building but
they are pretty torn up. Various mine shafts and some old
equipment lying around.
I spend the night back in my Vanagon resting on my
laurels!
February 28th
Off to Pahrump, Nevada for supplies, groceries, gas,
water and, by golly, I find a Wi-Fi hot spot and download 293 e-mails
and upload some photos to my friends. E-ha!
March 1st
My next project. Find the Confidence Wash
cave/cabin I have heard about.
I leave highway 178 and drive the 4X4 road up to the
saddle where the park service has blocked the road. Close
enough. I should be within three and a half miles of the cabin.
My plan is to do an overnight backpack trip to the
cabin but first I want to do a short trip down the wash to see what I
am up against. Taking my geocaching geek bag, lunch, water,
camera, and binoculars I head down the wash. About half way to
where the cabin should be I come across a mine.
I assume this was part of the Confidence Mill
operation. Several shafts and some old equipment but no cabins
that I see.
On my hike back up to the Vanagon a lizard keeps an
eye on me.
I spend the night at the Vanagon and wait till
morning to see what the weather looks like.
March 2nd.
It's a go.
It is mostly a process of following an old road that
is now closed. In places it is quite evident and in some places,
where it crosses washes, it disappears but the general idea is down,
down, down.
Two and a half hours of hiking and I find it!
Pretty darn cool!
There are gallon jugs of water with an iodine taste.
One can of pork and beans. Some candles, a knife, spoon and
fork. Some pots and pans.
Some magazines:
1972 Reader's Digest * 1972 Fall & Winter Montgomery
Ward Catalogue * 1977 May edition of Popular Mechanics
1981 Gander Mountain Catalogue * 1981 July edition of Outdoor Life *
1986 Oregonian Newspaper (Friday October 3)
I discover the 1977 Ford Thunderbird is selling for
just over five thousand dollars.
And I read that Nixon is visiting Russia for Nuclear Arms Reduction
talks.
On a table in the cabin was a large brown shopping
bag. On it was written:
......1981 April 28.....
These dugouts built
in 1935 by W.F.Lattimer
John Walker and
Sid Barbour
........................... W.E.Lattimer (son)
I unroll my sleeping bag and settle in for the
night.
I think I caught a brief glimpse of some old desert
rat in the mirror hanging on the wall!!
I cook supper on my little tin can stove, read the
magazines a while but soon darkness arrives and it is time to face a
night of sleeping on the rusty springs of the old bed; what a racket
each time I move. But I finally nod off.
2:00 AM and I wake to some scratching noise in my
backpack!! I get up and find this guy trying to get my Reese's
Peanut Butter Cup out of the side pocket of my backpack!
Morning! Thank god it's morning! I have
oat meal cooking on my tin can stove, the mouse has gone back into
hiding and I am off of that squeaky bed! Life is good! It
is 57 degrees outside but inside the cabin it stayed a constant 63
degrees!
Time to pack up and head for the Vanagon!
Up and up the hill I go.
My Vanagon waiting for me at the saddle looks great.
Home again. Home again!
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